Birthday Porchetta

Our friend Beth had a birthday recently and we hosted a bunch of former colleagues over to celebrate the occasion.  

To celebrate I made a porchetta.  If you are not sure what that it is, it is a lovely Italian method of delivering porky goodness, fat, and crispy skin all in one dish.  This cannot be made spur of the moment because the "rolled meat" needs to rest in the fridge overnight to allow the skin to dry out.  That is the key to the crispy, crackly skin that everyone wants to eat.  The "roll" is a pork belly long and wide enough to wrap around a pork loin.  Costco is a great place to get both a very large slab of pork belly as well as a whole pork loin that can be trimmed to fit the belly. The belly is prepped with an herb paste of parsley, basil, rosemary, mint, lemon balm, lemon zest, garlic, salt, pepper, red pepper flakes and fennel pollen.  The last is what makes the dish, so hunting around for somewhere that sells it is important.  Naturally, Amazon will provide but try to find a local purveyor if possible.  If you can't find any, fennel fronds will be a good substitution.

Ingredients

1 large skin on meaty pork belly

1 pork loin that is either the width or length of your belly piece

3 cloves of garlic

1 lemon, either zested or find removed in thin strips, no pith please

2 large handfuls of PICKED parsley leaves

2 medium sized sprigs of young rosemary (how do you know if it's young?  Is it easily bendy and the                         stems are green not woody and brown)

2-3 sprigs of basil, leaves picked

2-3 sprigs of lemon balm (I have it in the garden, and it amps the lemon flavor a little bit) optional

2-3 sprigs of mint

1/2 t citric acid or crushed up vitamin C tablet (why you ask?  it keeps the herb paste greener)

1 t hot pepper flakes or to taste

salt and pepper

olive oil, minimal

1 T salt

1 t baking powder

Method

1.  Flip the belly meat side down and pat dry.  There will be lots of wrinkles and crevasses in the skin.  Push them out to be as flat as possible.  Decide how you are going to wrap the pork loin.  Can it go along the long edge of the belly and be completely encased or does it have to go the short way to get totally encased.  This is all dependent on the thickness of your pork loin.  If it is a monster, then it will only work being place parallel to the short side of the loin.  If it was a smaller pig, then it might not be so thick and you can place it along the long side of the belly.  Or if you want a longer thinner porchetta, you and use multiple pork tenderloins placed end to end to run the length of the belly.

2.  Then take a VERY, VERY SHARP KNIFE. (this is key, you will be slicing just thru the skin and hopefully not into the meat and a dull knife will not cut it (pun intended).  You have decided on the direction of your "roll", cut the skin on a diagonal that way when you are tying up the belly the strings will not fall into the slices and cut into the meat.

 These cuts in the skin are a bit too deep, but the illustration is for direction of the cuts.

3.  Flip the belly over, pat dry and trim any scraggly bits on the meat side.  If the belly is uneven in its thickness, trim it as best you can to be even.  Try not to sacrifice to much of the meat on the belly.  Square, as best you can, the belly along the edges so that presentation will be pretty from both ends. Pretend roll the loin in the belly so that you can see a) where to trim loin, b) where the belly may overlap itself.  You are going to trim off the belly meat but leave the skin uncut if there is an over lap so that the only thing that overlaps is skin.  

4.  Open up your pretend belly roll and trim your loin to fit.  Remove any fat cap from the loin as well as any bits of silver skin or tendons.  You are now going to butterfly the loin a bit so that there is that pretty swirl of green in each slice.  This doesn't have to be a beauty contest, slice thru the loin as if you were going to cut it in half the long way but leave at least 1/2 inch of meat uncut.  Then do the same with the halves that you have made.  Place butterflied loin to the side.  On the meat side of the belly, make shallow diagonal slices so that the herb paste has somewhere to get into. Put aside.

5.  Herb paste is made with any convenient tool, processor, mortar and pestle, hand chopping, your choice!  I used a stick blender and a tall container.  

Into your choice of tool but the garlic cloves, lemon peel, citric acid, parsley, rosemary, lemon balm, mint and basil and grind up to a paste.  If you need a little help use only a small amount of olive oil.  From experience, I can tell you too much and it just oozes all over the surface when you are tying up the roast making grabbing the strings very difficult.  

6.  Sprinkle salt, pepper, fennel pollen, and hot pepper flakes over the meat side of the belly and into the slices that you made do the same in the butterflied loin.  Use about 1/2 - 3/4 of the paste you made and spread over the belly into your shallow slices.  Place loin in the direction you chose to roll and rub the remaining paste into the cuts you made earlier,  Any remaining paste can be rubbed on the outside of the loin.

You can see that there isn't a ton of herb paste.  Just enough to flavor and color the meat.  Too much and it overwhelms the taste of the pork itself.  

Now comes the tricky part, it is at least for me!

 

7.  The roll.  You will need a lot of precut strings to tie this baby together.  Roll up the loin in the belly and double check that you have either an overlap of just skin, or your two ends meet perfectly together without overlap.  Either is fine.  It is important to encase the loin because it will cook at a different rate that the belly and you want a juicy result, not a dry loin in a strip along the bottom.  If necessary adjust your trim so you have your preference.  Measure out a string that will completely encircle the roast with a lot of room.  Now cut about 10 - 16 of the same length.  

Starting at one end squidgy the string under the roast to the middle.  Continue adding strings to each side of the roast leaving them all untied for the moment.  Think about portioning here and place your strings accordingly.  I'd say every 3/8 - 1/2 of an inch apart.  Here is the difficult part for me, tying the butcher's knot.  This is a link to watching it done slowly.  I have had to watch many videos over and over again in order to tie things.  You need to pull the strings tight so that the loin is tightly enclosed in the belly. You also want the knot to be down away from the presentation side of the meat, for prettiness sake.

Now continue to tie these knots alternating on each side of your first string, think about portioning when you are doing this and keeping the string taut while tying the knot.  The strings make excellent spots to cut the finished product.  

8.  Admire your work.  Take pictures to amaze your friends.  

Put the tightly tied roll on a rack on a foil lined roasting pan.  (Side note:  this baby will shed fat like nobodies business, so choose your pan wisely.  The rack needs to keep the meat above the copious amount of fat that will be rendered.  I did not do this this time, and the fat spilled over the top of the sheet pan I used and filled the oven tray below it as well.)  

Wipe down the skin, you want it free of oil and errant bits of herb paste.  Take the 1 T salt and 1 t baking powder and mix together well in a small dish or cup.  Place the roast seam side up and rub a bit of the salt/BP mixture all over the seam and exposed sides of the belly.  Turn to coat one side then the other and finally put the roast seam side down and rub the top with the salt/BP mixture.  What does this do?  It changes the ph of the meat so that the skin puffs up and gets super crispy.  Works for turkey too, just saying.

9.  Put the roast in the fridge over night uncovered so that the skin dries out even more.  

10.  Remove from fridge the next day.  Make sure that you have enough room to put in the roast raised out of the anticipated fat and set oven to 300-325°F (based on your oven).   Insert a probe thermometer into the thickest end of the roast.  Do not pierce the skin, push probe into the loin from the open end.  Roast uncovered until the thermometer reads about 170°F.  If the skin is not already crispy and lovely burnished brown, remove from oven and increase oven temp to 400°F.  Put roast in and watch closely for about 10-15 minutes. 

10,  Let rest for at least 30 minutes tented with foil.

11.  Slice using a serrated knife into thin-ish slices because this is an incredibly rich meal.  Ideally each slice should have a lovely swirl of herb paste decorating it.  It will take will power not to start ripping of pieces of skin as a cook's treat.  

Dateline: January 7, 2022 Wild Boar Bolognese

I bought a 3 lb hunk of boar shoulder a while ago and decided this was the day it was going to get cooked.  I considered roasting it, but the meat was so lean, I thought it would be as tough as nails after a roast and a stringy braise wasn't going to do it for me either.

I decided on a bolognese sauce.  That meant I had to grind the meat up.  I needed 2 lbs for the recipe, and wanted that to be finely ground, so one lb of boar is a coarse grind, and the other 2 lbs are finely ground.  I wanted a texture closer to keema than to chili.

I chopped up that shoulder into planks that would fit in the throat of my grinder and went to town.  The meat was beautiful.  I used Hand Shaw's recipe for bolognese.  I love his recipes because they work and are very tasty.  He has a folksy way of writing about what he is making and I like that he also hunts for his food.  Not that this city girl would even contemplate doing that, but I like that he does.  

A couple surprising things about the recipe was that 1) not tomato forward, only 1 6 oz can of paste, and 2) the meat is NOT browned.  This gives the desired silky texture of keema which made this sauce so satisfying.

Of course, I only took one photo, naturally, which did not do the sauce justice.

Let the food processor do all the work with chopping the veggies finely.  I pulsed each one separately starting with the onion.  I could have pulsed the carrots a bit more, as you can see a couple of tidbits in the photo.  I did not have whole milk, I had half and half, so that is what I used.  I think I would have only used 1/2 c instead of the full 1 c called for.  The addition of the freshly grated nutmeg was outstanding.  It gave the sauce a bit of mystery whilst cooking.

This was served over orecchietti pasta along with a salad to chopped celery, cucumber, sweet onions, and tomatoes dressed with lemon and oil.  A very lovely dinner!

Dateline: March 16, 2021 Pork Ragu Maiallino

 I have been obsessed with no tomato pork ragus lately.  I have been wanting to try Maiallino's version for a long time, so what the heck.

I had some pork shoulder in the freezer and pulled it out to thaw a bit so I could cut out most of the fat on the surface and any pockets hiding within.  I cut each piece that I had into thirds, about the size of the shreds that I wanted at the end of the cooking.

Essentially, the pork is braised in a flavorful liquid until tender, then shredded while the liquid is by half.  There will be a lot of liquid, even after reducing, save about 1.5 - 2 cups for another purpose. Enrich with butter, yup, butter.  Oh boy oh boy did it add something fabulous to the sauce.  Throw in a half handful of grated parm, some dandelion greens (recipe called for rocket, did not have but did have dandelion greens), and parsley.  Slide in the shredded pork, and start the pasta water boiling.  

There are no tomatoes and NO Garlic in the sauce.  It is delightful  The suggested pasta is broken lasagna sheets, but I went with calamari pasta rings.  Many broke open so end result was with some wide strips of pasta.

What I would do differently, I would use more stock, I would shred the pork finer and thinner pieces.  Don't get me wrong it was delicious, but less elegant than I would have wanted.  Don't forget to use the lemon juice, it helps cut the richness of the sauce.  Pass the cheese and everything will be very quiet.