Best Ever "Fish Fragrance" Eggplant

This dish has no fish in it.  The name comes from the flavorings that are traditional used with fish in Chinese cooking.  It is a sichuan style recipe is often called Yu Xiang in restaurants.  This particular recipe comes from delish.com.  It is one of the best that I have used, bar none. 

The dish is simple, but if you don't cook Chinese food often you will need to get a lot of ingredients.  I was looking for a recipe that could use up the mountain of eggplants that my CSA gave me.  

Ingredients

3 Chinese eggplants, about 1.25 lbs, halved and cut into thick diagonal strips
2 t kosher salt

3 T cornstarch

Oil, divided

1 t ground sichuan peppercorns

6-12 dried sichuan chilis, stems/caps removed, cut in half and deseeded

1 T chopped pickled chili or sambal oelek or freshly sliced Thai chilis

3 T fermented chili bean paste, Pixian if possible

1 head of garlic minced, or equivalent cloves, divided

1 T minced ginger

1/2 t ground white pepper

3 green onions thinly sliced divided

1.5 T low sodium soy sauce (I used chinese light soy)

1.5 T rice wine vinegar

2 t Chinese Black vinegar

4 t granulated sugar (I used 3)

1/2 t MSG

1/2 c water or broth

2 t toasted sesame oil

Rice for serving

Method

1.  In a large bowl toss eggplant evenly with salt.  Let sit for 20-30 minutes, then gently squeeze out as much moisture as possible.  Drain and pat dry with paper towels.  Transfer to a dry bowl and then add cornstarch and toss to coat eggplant evenly.

2.  Heat a large skillet or wok over medium heat and add 2-3 T oil.  Heat until smoking.  Working in batches add some eggplant slices to the pan and fry until lightly brown on all sides, about 3-4 minutes.  Transfer to a clean bowl and set aside.  Finish the rest of the eggplant in the same manner.  Adding more oil if necessary.

3.  After frying the eggplant, remove the oil from the pan and add wipe with a wad of paper towels.  Heat pan again and add 2 T fresh oil to the pan.  After the oil is hot, add Sichuan ground pepper, chilis, bean paste, half the garlic, ginger, white pepper and half the green onions, stirring constantly until fragrant and the garlic is golden.  About 1 minute, do not burn.

4.  Return eggplant to pan, add soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, MSG, and water or broth.  I mixed all of these ingredients together in a single bowl ahead of time making sure that the sugar was dissolved.  Stir occasionally until the mixture thickens and becomes glossy, only a few minutes needed.  Stir in sesame oil, and remaining garlic and onions in final minute of cooking.  

5.  Serve with rice.

This dish was spicy but very well balanced.  There was the mala heat but it was tempered by that small amount of sugar and vinegar.  Absolutely delicious recipe and my thanks to the originator on delish.com,

I had a few strips of cucumber, onions, and carrots left over from a noodle dish the night before.  Perfect accompaniment.

I have made this subsequently from publishing here and I had a couple of red bell peppers that I stir fried with the ginger prior to adding the hot pepper paste and seasonings.  A welcome textural change.  I also had a ton of zucchinis that I treated exactly like the eggplant and it too was a lovely twist.  

Dateline: January 8, 2022 Pho: Instant Pot Beef Pho

It is cold here in Brooklyn.  Winter came screaming in and it is chilling my bones.  I wanted something hot for dinner as Mandy and Servet were coming over.

It was my luck that Servet had pho for lunch, oh, well, he was getting it for dinner as well.

I was intrigued by this Pho recipe from the NYTCooking.  It looked doable, I had the bones, oxtails, onions, ginger, and assorted necessary spices, so why not.

I did go to the supermarket to get the addending greenery and so picked up a piece each of thin sliced brisket and chuck steak.  I had an eye round in the fridge that is going to be turned into breseola so that raw beef part was also covered.

The recipe is clearly laid out and easy to follow.  I did read the comments and did deeply brown the onions and ginger in the instant pot before adding liquid and bones.

The brisket and chuck provided a nice textural difference to the oxtail that needed to be picked through carefully to remove tendons from any useable meat.  

The broth once strained was a work of art.  Beautifully clear, deep amber color with a satisfying flavor and aroma.  

Of course, I forgot to take a photo, but the photo connected to the recipe pretty much says it all.

Would I make this again?  Yes, it was very straight forward and to make it even easier I would try to pick up some pre-sliced beef for shabu shabu or hot pot.  Don't forget the greenery, it makes the dish.

Dateline: January 7, 2022 Wild Boar Bolognese

I bought a 3 lb hunk of boar shoulder a while ago and decided this was the day it was going to get cooked.  I considered roasting it, but the meat was so lean, I thought it would be as tough as nails after a roast and a stringy braise wasn't going to do it for me either.

I decided on a bolognese sauce.  That meant I had to grind the meat up.  I needed 2 lbs for the recipe, and wanted that to be finely ground, so one lb of boar is a coarse grind, and the other 2 lbs are finely ground.  I wanted a texture closer to keema than to chili.

I chopped up that shoulder into planks that would fit in the throat of my grinder and went to town.  The meat was beautiful.  I used Hand Shaw's recipe for bolognese.  I love his recipes because they work and are very tasty.  He has a folksy way of writing about what he is making and I like that he also hunts for his food.  Not that this city girl would even contemplate doing that, but I like that he does.  

A couple surprising things about the recipe was that 1) not tomato forward, only 1 6 oz can of paste, and 2) the meat is NOT browned.  This gives the desired silky texture of keema which made this sauce so satisfying.

Of course, I only took one photo, naturally, which did not do the sauce justice.

Let the food processor do all the work with chopping the veggies finely.  I pulsed each one separately starting with the onion.  I could have pulsed the carrots a bit more, as you can see a couple of tidbits in the photo.  I did not have whole milk, I had half and half, so that is what I used.  I think I would have only used 1/2 c instead of the full 1 c called for.  The addition of the freshly grated nutmeg was outstanding.  It gave the sauce a bit of mystery whilst cooking.

This was served over orecchietti pasta along with a salad to chopped celery, cucumber, sweet onions, and tomatoes dressed with lemon and oil.  A very lovely dinner!

Dateline: December 28, 2021 Salmon in a Spicy Sauce

Sometimes the little gray cells just don't fire on all cylinders.  For instance, I had some salmon that I wanted to use a recipe that had a compound butter of anchovies.  The recipe sounded good, and I took everything out of the fridge and got a recipe up on the phone from NYTCooking, and half way through the prep I realized it was NOT the recipe that I had intended.

Sometimes things turn out well even when you screw it up and go off plan.  I used Colu Henry's Sheet-pan Harissa Salmon .  And it is a keeper!

The salmon was cooked perfectly, 9 minutes at 400° F even though the recipe called for 450° F.  Many comments were that the fish was over cooked at that temp.  I roasted the potatoes and onions for 30 minutes at 400° F and then added the salmon skin side down.  

The marinade was wonderful.  I didn't have any orange juice, so I used a shot of triple sec and some water to make 1/3 cup.  The salmon marinated in it for about 30 minutes until the potatoes were almost crispy.  I used a mix of sweet and white potatoes as I love sweet and husband unit doesn't!

Photo is not that great, but the eating was!

Dateline: December 6, 2021 Roast Chicken, Green beans and Sweet Potato

There was a chicken in the fridge, just begging to be cooked.  I coated it with some olive oil and salt and pepper, and put it in a hot oven to start.  In the oven also went a white potato, for husband unit, and a sweet potato for me!  Into the microwave went a package of microwave safe green beans...surprisingly tasty!

Nothing special, just lovely crispy chicken skin and beautiful colors!

Ta-Dah
 

Dateline: December 14, 2021 Seared Duck Breast with Steamed Broccoli

I had a whole duck breast in the freezer and decided that I was in the mood for duck.

Seared Duck Breast with Apple Reduction

Ingredients

1 whole duck breast cut into halves, or 2 half breast portions

salt  and pepper

1 c apple juice

glug of calvados or brandy

Method

1.   Score the fat with a very sharp knife in a diamond pattern.  This helps the fat render out making the skin nice and crisp.  Salt and pepper both sides of the duck.

2.  In askillet large enough to accommodate both breasts at the same time, add a tiny bit of olive oil and rub all over the skillet.  IN A COLD SKILLET, put the breasts in skin side down and top with a bacon press or other heavy weight.  This is to be sure that the skin has contact with the pan and to help the fat render.

3.  Turn on heat to medium low.  DO NOT touch the duck breasts, or wiggle them around or peek to see if they are browned enough.  After about 10 minutes, using tongs see if the breasts will release from the pan.  If they do not, then they are not ready to be turned over.  Be patient, grasshopper.  When they finally do release from the pan, remove them to a plate flesh side down.  Hold

4.  Remove all but 2 T of oil from the pan.  DO NOT THROW THIS RENDERED DUCK FAT AWAY.  PUT INTO A CONTAINER AND THEN WHEN COOL INTO THE FREEZER.  THIS IS CULINARY GOLD.  Into the pan now add the apple juice and scrape up the brown bits.  Turn the heat down, and allow to reduce by half.  Add in a glug of calvados or brandy and stir to mix.  Taste for seasonings.  Add the duck back into the pan skin side down and lightly tent the pan with foil for about 5 minutes or so.  The duck will be medium to medium well at this point.

5.  Remove to a cutting board and slice on the bias and serve over a bed of steamed broccoli or other vegetable of your choice.  Nap with the sauce and enjoy.

Dateline: December 3 , 2021 Sous Vide Rib Eye Steaks, Brussel Sprouts with Butter and Vegemite, Tomato Jam, and Baked Tater

 

Fresh Direct had rib eyes on sale, so I bought a couple, thinking that I would cook one, we would split it, and then freeze the second.  When I saw them, I realized that I should just cook them both!

Sous Vide Steak

Ingredients

2 Rib Eye Steaks, trimmed of gristle and excess fat

coarse salt

pepper

onion powder

garlic powder

Method

1.  Liberally salt, pepper, onion and garlic powder the steaks on both sides.

2.  Place in a vacuum sealer bag and seal with 2 seals 1/2 inch apart.

3.  Set up your water bath and bring to your desired temperature.  I like medium rare steak, so I set the temp for 129°F, if you like medium, use 135°F, and if you like it more done than that, set it higher, just don't tell me.

4.  When water bath is at the correct temp for you, lower the steaks into the hot water and set a timer.  If your steaks are 1.5 - 2 inches thick, then 2 hours is good.  If they are .5 - 1 inch thick, then 1 hour will work.  You can't over cook the steak.  It will never get any hotter than the water temperature.

5.  Now the fun part, playing with fire.  After cooking is done, remove steaks from the bag and gently pat dry on a wire rack over a sheet pan under the hood of your stove.  Why under the hood?  Because you are going to use a torch to sear the steaks on the outside.  The visual draw back of sous vide is that the cooked protein does not look very appetizing.  In fact, it looks down right gray.  Light your torch and let it rip.  Sear the top and sides well then flip the steak and do the underside.  Be sure you have the hood on so that the heat escapes and you aren't melting anything plastic that is next to the stove.  

6.  Plate and serve.

Sprouts with Butter and Vegemite

Ingredients

1 lb brussels sprouts, washed and cut in half

1 T olive oil

1 glove of garlic, smashed and minced fine

1 T butter

1 T vegemite or marmite

Method

 

1.  Heat a skillet large enough to hold sprouts in a single layer.  Add the olive oil and the sprouts.  Cook until slightly charred and almost cooked through.  I did throw in a few left over broccoli bits from the fridge, if you look closely.

2.  Add butter, vegemite, and garlic and coat all of the sprouts.  Continue to stir and cook until the sprouts are cooked through.  If you need/want more butter and vegemite, toss it in.  No one is looking.

Tomato Jam

Ingredients

3 Pints cherry or grape tomatoes

2 small or 1 large Shallot, finely diced

3 cloves of garlic, finely diced

Olive Oil

salt and pepper

glug of white wine

Method

1.  Add oil to a pan that can go from stove to oven.  Heat and add the shallots and garlic and cook to soften them up without browning.

2.  Add tomatoes and season with salt and pepper and the glug of white wine.  Stir everything up to combine and try your best to level out top.  Add a good additional glug of olive oil and put into a 350°F oven until the tomatoes have burst and the liquid is bubbling nicely.  

3.  Remove and hold.  It will thicken up as it cools.  Serve warm, not piping hot

Cheater's Baked Taters

Ingredients

enough russet potatoes to serve guests, washed and prick the skin generously

Method

1.  Get a paper bag and put potato in the bag, fold it over and put in the microwave on high for 10 minutes.  You can put 2 in a single bag, but you will need to flip the bag over after 5 minutes.

DONE.  

Dateline: December 2, 2021 Split Pea Soup -- High and Low Brow

I had a hankering for split pea soup.  I had yellow split peas, and some dying leeks and assorted vegetation.  Besides, it was cold out that night.

Yellow Split Pea Soup

Ingredients

1 lb yellow split peas, washed and picked over

1 large onion, chopped

2 small leeks, washed, split and rinsed free of sand, chopped into half moons

2 or 3 stalks of celery

1-2 carrots, peeled and chopped

1 or 2 small potatoes, washed, peeled, and cut into smallish dice

2 bay leaves

olive oil 

1 bunch tuscan kale, washed and cut into bite-sized ribbons

2 T Calabrian pepper paste, (to taste) or some other hot pepper paste, again to taste

salt and pepper

2.5 quarts chicken stock

1/2 pint sour cream

2 oz jar of lumpfish caviar, either red or black

Method

1.  Add 1-2 T olive oil to a pan large enough to hold everything easily.  Add chopped onions, carrots, celery, and potatoes to soften up a bit.  Sprinkle with a bit of salt and pepper.

2.  Add washed split peas and 2 quarts of stock.  Stir and cover and reduce heat to low, or make in an instant pot or slow cooker.

3.  After about 1 hour, uncover pot and stir to make sure that the peas don't stick to the bottom of the pan and burn.  Taste.  Add more salt, pepper and hot pepper paste if using and the last cup of stock.

4.  When the peas have broken down, use a stick blender to puree everything together and then add the kale.  Cook on low until kale is cooked through and soft.  Taste to adjust seasonings.

5.  Serve with a dollop of sour cream topped with a spoonful of lumpfish caviar.  Delish!

Dateline: November 29, 2021 Chicken Parm -- first time

I have always been intrigued with (fill in the blank) parm.  I have a very soft spot for eggplant parm, and have made many time, but chicken parm, I have never made before.

Chicken Parm

Ingredients

about 6 thin cut chicken cutlets

2 eggs beaten with some milk or water

1/2 c flour

Couple of T of grated parmesan cheese

salt and pepper

1/4 t cayenne pepper

Marinara sauce

1/2 lb mozzarella cheese, sliced

Grated Parmesan cheese to sprinkle over top

pasta of your choice

Method

1.  Mix flour, salt, pepper, cayenne, and parmesan cheese together on a plate and set aside.  In another plate or shallow bowl, beat eggs together with milk or water until will mixed.  Heat oven to 350°.

2.  If cutlets are of uneven thickness, take a long piece of plastic wrap dribble a few drops of water on one side of the plastic and place a cutlet down.  Sprinkle the side that is up with a few drops of water and fold the plastic wrap over it.  Do this so that there is a lot of room on all sides of the cutlet.  Using a straight rolling pin, wine bottle, meat basher, flatten the cutlet so that it is an even thickness through out.  Remove to a plate, and repeat with remaining cutlets.

3.  After all cutlets have been pounded, if necessary, dredge them in the egg and milk mixture and then into the flour mixture.  Set on a wire rack over a sheet pan to catch any drips and allow the coating to dry a bit.  Finish all cutlets this way.

4.  In a skillet, heat some oil or butter and when hot, add one or two cutlets to the pan.  You want a lot of room around the cutlets so that they brown evenly.  After one side is nicely browned, flip the cutlet over using a pair of tongs.  If cutlet is sticking to the skillet, it is not ready to be turned, have patience.  When second side it browned, remove cutlet to a plate and hold until all are down.

5.  In a baking dish, spoon enough marinara sauce cover the bottom of the pan, all the cutlets on top of the sauce.  Manipulate the cutlets so that you have them in a single layer.  If your cutlets are ginormous, then do it in two layers.  Cover first layer of cutlets with sauce, add second layer and then top with mozzarella slices and sprinkle grated parmesan over all.

6.  Put water on for your pasta of choice, boil according to package directions.

7.  Put baking dish in the oven until sauce is bubbling and mozzarella cheese has melted and is browning is spots.  Remove and let cool for a couple of minutes.  Serve with pasta and remaining marinara sauce.

Dateline: November 15, 2021 I am back in the saddle, again Spicy Szechwan Shrimp

To all my friends and others who have found this blog:

When I last wrote it was way back in August, 2021.  Since then, I have broken my ankle, and was out of commission for quite some time.  I had to have surgery to put the bits of my fibula back into place and I have a ton of hardware in my right ankle that will set off airport scanners from now on.  I am able to walk without a limp, but my ankle does tire after a long day of walking, especially if there are stairs, going down stairs is still tough.

I will back-post today starting in November and move forward.  Mid November is when I began to have the strength in my leg to be able to stand at the stove and kitchen counter.

Spicy Szechwan Shrimp

Ingredients

1 lb large shrimp, shelled and deveined

1 T shaoxing wine

1/4 c cornstarch

1/2 t salt

1/2 t pepper

1/4 t ground szechwan pepper corns (measured after grinding)

Neutral cooking oil

1 onion, halved and sliced through the root end

1 bell pepper of any color

Green leafy veg of any kind, I used tuscan kale, chopped into bit-sized ribbons

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 inch piece of ginger, scraped and cut into thin match stick pieces

1 - 2 T Pixian Chili paste, depending on your spice level

1 T Shao xing wine or dry sherry

1 t light soy sauce

1 t dark soy sauce

1 T rice wine vinegar

1 t sugar, optional

Sesame Oil, optional

Method

1.  In a small bowl or plate mix cornstarch, salt, pepper, and szechwan pepper together and hold.  In another small bowl, put cleaned shrimp and 1 T shaoxing wine and mix together and marinate for 10 minutes or so.

2.  Remove shrimp from marinade and add a few at a time to the  cornstarch mixture.  Coat well and place on a rack over a sheet pan to dry out a bit.  Continue until all the shrimp have been coated.  If you need more of the cornstarch mixture, make some more!

3.  Add 2 T cooking oil into a cold wok and then heat.  Stir fry a small number of shrimp at a time.  I found 6 -7 were all that my wok could handle without cooling the oil too much.  You want the shrimp to be crispy, but not over cooked.  Add more oil to the wok as needed to fry the remaining shrimp.  Remove shrimp to the rack over the sheet pan and hold until the veggies are cooked.  

4.  Cut veggies for stir fry and assemble your mis-en-place near the wok or frying pan.  Wipe out wok and add 2 T neutral oil.  Add the onions, ginger, and peppers to the wok and stir fry for about 30-40 secs, then add the garlic and leafy greens.  When the greens have wilted add the chili paste, shaoxing, light soy, dark soy, and rice wine and mix well.  If you need some liquid, add some stock or water to your pan.  Add the shrimp back in and cook to coat everything with the spicy paste.

5.  Serve with rice.